After having rented a car, my third time (la tercera vez) in Chile, no small feat, and making it out of Valdivia, we headed out of town for some exploration of the coastal areas (zonas costales) nearby and hoping for a tranquil and serene setting from which to enjoy the coming afternoon and night (la próxima tarde y noche). What started as an exercise in exploration actually resulted in a series of happenings that I can only describe as extraordinary and incredible.
First, as we went out of Valdivia, we went past the local brewery (cervecería) of Kuntsmann, where the beer is brewed and bottled. This setting outside of Valdivia houses the brewery facilities (la fabrica de cerveza), the distribution warehouse and a wonderful restaurant and tasting room. Originally, the brewery was set on the shores of the Valdivia River, but was destroyed in the earthquake (un terremoto) in 1960. After many years, and with help (ayuda) from US breweries, the factory was set and up and running, reviving the German traditions (las tradiciones alemanes) of the Kuntsmann family and the recipes of old. This is definitely a travel destination and with traveling with 2 experts, Marcus and Trish, in hand-crafted brews we had both an experience and an education (una experiencia y una educación).
We then stumbled upon a set of cabañas that sat on the channel (un canal) overlooking the bay at Niebla. What started out as an excursion turned in to a memorable destination, as the views overlooking the sea were incredible, the local shores dotted with small fishing boats, the island shores in the distance seemingly our only neighbors (solamente nuestros vecinos), and the beauty and richness of the darkened sky gave way to the Milky Way and the Southern Cross. In my mind, I wondered if this is what it looked like in the Pacific Northwest in the 1950s, unspoiled and unpopulated (sin gente). With a woodstove (horno de leña) to keep us warm and good company to keep the conversations moving, we had a great and enjoyable evening.
The next morning (la próxima mañana), we got on a ferry and headed over to the Island of Corral for a look at the ruins of the Spanish forts (las fuertes españoles) which are the best preserved in all of Chile. What was truly remarkable was that the monument in all its glory is fully accessible and free of charge (gratis). This fort and others around the area were established to protect the channel that leads into the city of Valdivia. It is said to be one of the biggest systems of fortification established during the years (durante los años) of Spanish rule in Chile. In reality, getting a chance to walk in an area where Conquistadores were definitely present in the past was quite astonishing and for me, as someone who has lived in areas such as Santa Fe, NM, this might seem over the top.
Yet, by actually being able to climb on the canons, walk through the gates (las puertas), touch the shore and experience the views complete with sea splattered sprays, the experience both took me back and upon reflection, propelled me forward into a greater understanding and connection to the roots of Chile (las raíces de Chile).
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