A los Pies de los Gigantes – At the Feet of the Giants

I had heard there were volcanoes (los volcanes) in Chile and of course my geology friends back in the US were quick to let me know that it was a fact. As well, if you look on a map of Chile, you will see a number of volcanoes, some of which are still active in a geological sense. When I was here last year (en el año pasado) in Chile for a brief visit, a Volcano erupted and even in January of this year, 2008, one erupted as well. The last real one to cause extreme damage (un daño extremo) happened in May of 2008 near the village of Chaitén, Chile, which actually destroyed the small fishing village and from which the 4000 residents had to evacuate. Volcanoes are no small thing, they are in one sense the power (el poder) of the Earth below, and the result of their push on the ground (la tierra) is the creation of giants.

On the northern road out of Chiloé and back across channel on the ferry, you pick up Route 5 once again and as you head north, the freeway (la carretera) opens back up into 2 lanes around the city of Puerto Montt. Just north of this area is the town of Puerto Varas, which we had heard had a great reputation as ecotourism spot (un lugar de ecoturismo) with great outdoors activities including hiking and sailing (navegación). We also heard there were Volcanoes in the area, and we hoped to see some while we were driving. The clouds (las nubes) and rain (la lluvia) of the south soon gave way to blue skies and as we moved ever forward, suddenly off in the distance, appeared these giants.

Off in the distance, you could clearly see 2 volcanoes, the Volcano Calbuco and the Volcano Puntiagudo, each of which made us stop in awe. In fact, we had to pull over and snap some photos, not because these giants (estos gigantes) might move, but we were all so impressed by their size (su tamaño) and respected power that we had to capture the moment. And with blue skies (los cielos azules), we knew that we had to seize the moment or these giants might be covered in the clouds once again, to retreat to the distance and perhaps seem as figments of our imagination (un producto de nuestra imaginación).

Arriving in Puerto Varas, the giants were already there (allá) to great us and the beautiful blue skies of the day, the still deep blue waters of the shore only accented the impressiveness of the distant volcanoes. Couple that with the fact (el hecho) that Puerto Varas is a very cool and fun town, in fact, it reminded me of Durango, Colorado from about 20 years ago, seemingly undiscovered, but well knows by the throngs (muchedumbre) of backpackers who dotted the city and inhabited the many hostels.

Yes, we stood in the awe of the giants, sitting at their feet (a sus pies) and understanding the each day in Chile, a new surprise (una sorpresa nueva) lies just around the bend.

La Romance de Chiloé – The Romance of Chiloé

Some months ago, I was invited to a dinner (una cena) that featured the sights, sounds and flavors of an area called Chiloé here in Chile. What I remembered was colorful costumes made of sheep’s wool (lana de oveja), lots of seafood in a dish called Curanto and a spiced wine that was quite tasty, like Sangria with a spicy kick. I also remember that when I first got here to Chile, my friend Juan, who has lived in Chile all his life (toda su vida), suggested 2 places that I needed to be sure to visit and the first one was Chiloé. With all that in mind, as I found myself at the area below Valdivia, I turned my sights south (al sur) and set out for Chiloé.

Chiloé is really a large island (una isla grande) that is set within the lakes region of Chile and the only road that runs through it is Route Five. In reality (en realidad), as you drive south, you come to a crossing where you have to drive your car onto a ferry and travel some miles across the channel until you get to the island of Chiloé. Once you enter the island, you sense that you are truly in another world (un otro mundo), as the sights turned a brilliant green laden with bright yellow flowers (las flores amarillas) in bloom. The colors and scenery so unlike anything I had seen in Chile thus far, I knew that I was entering into an area both magical and serene.

As we moved down the road, I struggled to relate the scenery (el paisaje) of my past, it was like the rolling hills (los ceros adulados) of Appalachia, the river valleys (las valles del río) of the South and the fertile farmlands of the upper Midwest all rolled into one. The areas were dotted with homes, like small farms (las estancias pequeñas), set back off dirt roads and with pigs, sheep and cows grazing on the ever green grass. The rain began to fall, first soft and then with greater impact, and this signaled a change (un cambio) that would be ever present in this region. If El Paso is known as the Sun City for its 300 plus days of sunshine, Chiloé is known as the rain capital of the world, arguably one of the wettest regions known on the planet.

As we entered the town (el pueblo) of Castro in Chiloé, which is the capital of the region, we were taken aback by the wonderful architecture and brilliant colors of the homes. A number of houses were built on stilts (los zancos) and surrounded the inlet, where boats lay docked below, the fisherman nature of the region woven into the fabric of the history of today. After finding a place to stay and heading out across the beautiful plaza in downtown (el centro), we found our way to a dinner spot for a traditional seafood feast. The Curanto we had had some sausage, a pork rib and so many mussels and clams that I could not fathom how I was going to eat it all. The mussels were so large and mature that I swear some of them had beards (unas barbas), and I ate until I was full and then I ate some more.

Chiloé has a magical feel (un sentido mágico) that transcends description and as we headed out to the north, the gentle rain bid us farewell. I can understand why this area is so special for long time residents (los chilotes) and new found visitors, as the magic of its location, the beauty of its setting and the mystery of its ways are still waiting to be discovered.

Los Fuertes de Niebla – The Forts of Niebla

After having rented a car, my third time (la tercera vez) in Chile, no small feat, and making it out of Valdivia, we headed out of town for some exploration of the coastal areas (zonas costales) nearby and hoping for a tranquil and serene setting from which to enjoy the coming afternoon and night (la próxima tarde y noche). What started as an exercise in exploration actually resulted in a series of happenings that I can only describe as extraordinary and incredible.

First, as we went out of Valdivia, we went past the local brewery (cervecería) of Kuntsmann, where the beer is brewed and bottled.  This setting outside of Valdivia houses the brewery facilities (la fabrica de cerveza), the distribution warehouse and a wonderful restaurant and tasting room.  Originally, the brewery was set on the shores of the Valdivia River, but was destroyed in the earthquake (un terremoto) in 1960. After many years, and with help (ayuda) from US breweries, the factory was set and up and running, reviving the German traditions (las tradiciones alemanes) of the Kuntsmann family and the recipes of old. This is definitely a travel destination and with traveling with 2 experts, Marcus and Trish, in hand-crafted brews we had both an experience and an education (una experiencia y una educación).

We then stumbled upon a set of cabañas that sat on the channel (un canal) overlooking the bay at Niebla.  What started out as an excursion turned in to a memorable destination, as the views overlooking the sea were incredible, the local shores dotted with small fishing boats, the island shores in the distance seemingly our only neighbors (solamente nuestros vecinos), and the beauty and richness of the darkened sky gave way to the Milky Way and the Southern Cross. In my mind, I wondered if this is what it looked like in the Pacific Northwest in the 1950s, unspoiled and unpopulated (sin gente). With a woodstove (horno de leña) to keep us warm and good company to keep the conversations moving, we had a great and enjoyable evening.

The next morning (la próxima mañana), we got on a ferry and headed over to the Island of Corral for a look at the ruins of the Spanish forts (las fuertes españoles) which are the best preserved in all of Chile. What was truly remarkable was that the monument in all its glory is fully accessible and free of charge (gratis).  This fort and others around the area were established to protect the channel that leads into the city of Valdivia.  It is said to be one of the biggest systems of fortification established during the years (durante los años) of Spanish rule in Chile.  In reality, getting a chance to walk in an area where Conquistadores were definitely present in the past was quite astonishing and for me, as someone who has lived in areas such as Santa Fe, NM, this might seem over the top. 

Yet, by actually being able to climb on the canons, walk through the gates (las puertas), touch the shore and experience the views complete with sea splattered sprays, the experience both took me back and upon reflection, propelled me forward into a greater understanding and connection to the roots of Chile (las raíces de Chile).

En Todo el Camino a Valdivia – All the Way to Valdivia

Chile is a really long (muy largo) and incredibly slender (muy delgado) country that has over 6000 kilometers of coastline along the Pacific and borders both Argentina on the east and Bolivia and Peru on the north.  It has arguably the driest desert in the world (en el mundo), Atacama, in the north as well as the wettest lands in the land regions to the south.  It has the coldest areas in Antarctica and has rugged mountains (montañas escarpadas) to the east and beautiful coasts to the west.  It has parts of 3 continents, the South American continent, The Antarctic continent and the Australian continent, with Easter Island, making it the only country that has parts of 3 continents (tres continentes).  The saying (el dicho) in Chile is that when God was making the world, he took art of what was left over from everywhere else, put it all together, and called it Chile.

So, there is a lot to do and a lot to explore (explorar) here in Chile, and recently, with the help of our friends, Marcus and Trish, who were visiting from Colorado, we took it upon ourselves to head south to explore some of the Lakes region (la region de los lagos), beginning in Valdivia. This city was named after the Spanish explorer, Pedro de Valdivia, who also founded the city of Santiago.  It sits some distance (mucha distancia) from Santiago, and in order to get there, we had to undertake a new method of travel, the overnight bus ride.  We did some research and bought our tickets (nuestros billetes) at the bus terminal, opting for the recline-able seats (semi-cama) in the upper level of the bus, and after a 10 hour ride at night, we arrived at the bus terminal in Valdivia.

We checked our bags (nuestras maletas) at the bus terminal and set out to explore the city of Valdivia, and that meant heading toward the area near the Valdivia River. Here, there is a wonderful seafood market (un mercado) that hops to live with all kinds of fresh foods from the sea, such as oysters (las ostras), mussel (los mejillones), clams (las almejas), and fresh fish (pescado fresco), including salmon.  The activity in the market is also enhanced by the numerous sea lions (lobos del mar) which sit nearby waiting for some delicacy to fall their way.  Seagulls (las gaviotas) and other birds dot the area and make it for a wonderfully fun diversion for the day.

We also went across the bride and make our way to the University Austral of Chile, which has a wonderful Botanical Garden (una jardín botánica) that makes for a comfortable stroll and beautifully peaceful commune with nature.  It came in stark contrast to my university experience in Santiago, which is dominated by activity including numerous students and people coming and going on the streets as well as on the campus. Here, there was a gentle stroll (un camino sencillo) along the campus, with students enjoying the day and a sense of calm all round.  The feel of the area reminded me of other places I have visited that have a strong sense of history and a beautiful location (un lugar hermoso), such as James Madison University in the mountains of Virginia or Vanderbilt University in the river valleys of Tennessee.

The town and area has so much to offer and as it sits at the joining of the Calle-Calle, Valdivia and Cau-Cau Rivers before entering into the Pacific.  With its strategic position and natural beauty (belleza natural), you can understand why the Spanish settlers of the past, the residents of today and the visitors from all over, continue to flock and flourish in Valdivia. 

Los Artistas de la Ciudad – The Artists of the City

Santiago is a thriving city with a high concentration of people, by some estimates, one half (la mitad) of all people in Chile live within an hour of downtown. This mass of people means that as a large city (una ciudad grande), it also has to function in like manner, with loads of public transportation, public services (servicios públicos) and multiple options for goods. In the same manner, there are a wide range of people here as well, many from other parts of Chile, some from other countries in South America and of course, foreigners (extranjeros) like me from other points around the globe. Yet, Santiago has a vibe all its own, and its quintessential cool, much like that of San Francisco, CA or Vancouver, BC, belie a style that is both cutting edge and inherently hip.

This is never as evident as is seen in the art (el arte) all around town, which is expressed in many distinct ways including graphic arts, murals, music and film. You can’t help but be immersed in the art and impressed by it as well, as it is a truly all encompassing aspect of living (de la vida) in the city. When you take the bus anywhere in the city, often you will have the good fortune (la buena fortuna) to be entertained by musicians, who will sing songs, play instruments and take a goodwill offering from the passengers for their services. You can also hear poets, listen to comedians or be entertained by clowns in full make up. The point is that the art scene is truly seen, and it spills over directly into your lap, and demands you to participate (participar).

Another place you can see that art scene happening is on the streets (las calles), where there are countless murals (los murales) that dot the walls of buildings and line the roads. Many people might dismiss this form of art, simply calling it graffiti, but it is much more that that. It is an artful expression that integrates symbols of faith (de fe), of pain (de dolor), of suffering, of history and of creativity. I have taken the opportunity to photograph many different pieces of these murals all over town, and have shared it with my friends (mis amigos), as it is the kind of art that stops me in my tracks, magnifying the depth and breadth of the city experience, which seemingly explodes at every turn. There are also a number of incredible murals on the UMCE campus, done by students today and in the past, and they tell a story of struggle, of change (de cambio) and above all, of hope (de esperanza).

There are many other ways to see and experience art, on one option is to visit the many wonderful museums (los museos) through the city. In addition, there are public competitions for independent films, live theatre to see, concerts to hear and spoken word expressions as well. While I have been here in Santiago, I even had the opportunity to submit an entry for a contest called 100 Palabras (words), in which you had to write something that describes your own experience and perspective (su experiencia y perspectiva) of Santiago in 100 words or less. My entry, along with tens of thousands of other entries, I think I was in the 18,000s, was submitted for judging and possible publication. The organizers then choose the top 10 as winners (ganadores) and print posters with the words and names of the authors, which are then displayed in the subway, in the streets, in coffee shops, in bars and in restaurants. The top 100 entries are also placed in a small book (un librito), which is available at book stores, news stands and at times, free on the street.

Yes, the art scene in Santiago is unique and the perspectives communicated intense and memorable, and at least in my thoughts, this is something any visitor (alguna visitante) to Santiago can’t help but find impressive.

Un Maestro como un Estudiante – A Teacher as a Student

I have often said that I like to teach (enseñar) because I like to learn (aprender), because teaching gives you the opportunity to learn each and every day. There are new content ideas to learn in you craft, there are new skills (habilidades nuevas) to learn to help you teach, there are better methods (métodos mejores) of facilitation to learn, there are opportunities to learn more about your students on professional and personal levels, as well as lots to learn from your colleagues as well. Yes, I enjoy teaching because I like to learn and the fact that I still have a lot to learn is one of the main reasons (la razones principales) why I came to Chile.

I have had the good fortune (la buena fortuna) to work with Professor Claudio Pérez, who has been a physics teacher for many years. When we met many years ago (muchos años en el pasado), I found that we had much in common, with only the language barrier, meaning my inability to effectively communicate in Spanish, was the only real impediment (impedimento). As a constructivist educator in science and technology, I have had a number of unique experiences as both a professor and classroom teacher, but in reality (pero, en realidad), I have never had a regular mentor that could demonstrate the craft of teaching (enseñanza) to me directly and clearly. Claudio has a tireless work ethic that also translates into an open door (puerta abierta) commitment to students and faculty alike. He always makes time for others and guides them in their learning in a discovery based manner.

I feel that I have been a good classroom teacher and university professor, but certainly feel that I have a lot more (mucho más) to learn. I could, if I so desired, sit back on my laurels as a teacher and rest in my accomplishments (mis logros) to date. I mean, I have won awards for teaching, been recognized for outstanding accomplishments in teaching and have a large number of unsolicited letters (cartas) from students thanking me for my efforts as their teacher. Yet, in reality, I have a lot more to learn, and still actively seek out examples (ejemplos) and models that I can watch and learn from, even with my years of experience. There is an adage that says you teach how you were taught (enseña como se enseñaron), and I believe that this applies to us all, both the teachers of today and the future teachers of tomorrow. If any change (cambio) is going to happen in my own teaching, it really has to start with me.

That is what has brought me all the way to Santiago, Chile, to leave (salir) the comfort of my home in El Paso and to brig myself and my wife here, so that I can, among other things, find a new way (un camino nuevo) to energize my academic pursuits. Often in my work with Claudio, I get the unique chance to learn both content and process, to gain new ideas and to be supported in my growth (crecimiento) as an educator. He constantly makes time for me as well, his foreign student and colleague, and models ways for me to think about my overall approach to this profession.

Yes, I have come to Chile to teach and do research (investigar), but what I have also gained is the chance to learn at the feet (a los pies) of a master (un experto).

Cien Días, Mil Pensamientos – A Hundred Days, A Thousand Thoughts

When I began to plan my journey (mi viaje) as part of my Fulbright experience, I had a number of deadlines to meet and miles to accomplish.  Primarily, I had to apply for the award and this required a lot of planning and cooperation, both on my end, but also for a number of others (muchas personas) who contributed to my application packet.  I had to get letters of recommendation, letters of support from Chile, letters (unas cartas) validating my teaching abilities, and forms validating my abilities to read, write and speak in Spanish.  I had to fill out a formal proposal and supply samples of my work, both as a teacher and as a researcher (como maestro y investigador ambos). 

In reality (en realidad), I began to formulate my plan in January of 2007 in order to submit my materials by the August 1, 2007 deadline.  I had hoped to receive a 5 month appointment in Chile, which if you have been reading along, you know that I did receive (yo recibí).  Yet, when I submitted my application back in August of 2007, it was some 4 months in December of 2007 before I received the first indication (la primera indicación) that my efforts might pay off in this unique opportunity, and that this might actually become a reality.

In January (enero) of 2008, I had to begin the year with a series of negotiations and facilitated agreements between my host institution (la UMCE), Fulbright Chile and the Fulbright Commission in Washington, DC. Over the next few months, I had to justify and defend my plan, as well as construct (para construir) a path of implementation that covered both my academic and professional goals (las metas). By March of 2008, all the institutional requirements were in place and at that time, I had to subsequently pass the medical clearance and obtain the correct visa so that I could work in Chile.  After many visits (muchas visitas) to the clinic for physical exams and immunizations, along with a self-funded trip to the Chilean consulate in Houston, I was given the clearance to head to Chile for my Fulbright experience beginning in July of 2008.

Once I was sure I was going, it got really serious (muy serio) about the regular things in life, like finding a place to live near the university (cerca de la universidad).  The commission suggests that you work with your local hosts, and this is some of the best advice to take to heart.  With the help (la ayuda) of friends who went out of their way many times, I was able to secure a furnished apartment that put me a comfortable 15 minute walk to campus.  The location was safe and secure, and also allowed for me and my wife, Sarah, to live, work and enjoy Ñuñoa.

Now, I am reaching another milestone (un hito) in that it has now been 100 days here in Chile, and I have about one third of my time, or 50 days, left here in Santiago.  There is so much left to do, and the time (el tiempo) is quickly advancing.  What at first seemed like an eternity (una eternidad) has become a rapidly moving reality.  The time will only continue to progress, ad the value (el valor) of the time remaining will only increase.  As I enter my final third of my journey, there are a thousand thoughts that enter my head, none greater that am I redeeming the time that I have been given?  This is something that not only do I need to enact here, but also something that on which I need to reflect.   In fact (de hecho), this needs to be part of my life from here on out.

By the time I get home (en casa) from this experience, it will be December of 2008, right before the Christmas holiday in the US. This will be a full 2 years (dos años completos) from the time when I had the entail inclination to reach for this Fulbright award.  Although 2 years sounds like a lot of time, and in reality, it is, but when you get down to the final 50 days, there seems to be more to experience in the future, than there was ever in the past (el pasado).

La Belleza de Valparaíso – The Beauty of Valpairiso

Valparaíso or Valpo is a port city of great history (gran historia) and equally one of undeniable beauty and culture.  It was established in the 16^th century as a port for the Spanish Conquistadores and today (hoy) serves as the main port for goods that are shipped from Chile all over the world (al todo el mundo).  The main export products in Chile are copper (cobre), fruits & vegetables (frutas y verduras), and of course, wine (vino), and the harbor at Valparaíso is filled with cargo ships from Europe, the Far East and points across the globe.  While on the shore (en la playa) and looking out into the harbor, one can see ships from countries such as England, Russia, Japan and Germany.

Yet, the town (la ciudad) of Valparaíso also has a strong artistic presence, in part due to the impact of Pablo Neruda, the Noble Prize winner (ganador) for literature in the 1970s.  Neruda had a home in Valparaíso, La Sebastiana, which currently is a well-visited tourist destination. The importance (la importancia) of Neruda and his meaning to Chile cannot be underestimated or undervalued, and view from the top of his home is a reminder that he sits atop the artist community (la comunidad de artistas) and consciousness here in Chile.  His home, now a independently funded museum, sits high atop the hills (los ceros) of Valparaíso, almost all of which are incredibly steep and long. 

The streets (las calles) are so steep, even more than anything I have traveled on the streets of San Francisco, that I had to stay in first gear on my rental car just to keep the RPMs high enough (bastante alto) to keep the car climbing.  To offset this throughout the city, Valparaíso has a large number of elevators (los asesores) are located all over the place, and date back to the end of the 19^th and beginning of the 20^th centuries.  Historically, these elevators were used to transport heavy materials, such as barrels (las barillas) of heating oil, furniture, and building supplies, up the hills to other levels within the city.  The oldest (el mas antiguo) elevator is near Cerro Concepcion, and is still operating today, and for just about 50 cents US, you can take a ride up in the elevator, a trip that is timeless in its presentation and unprecedented in its value (su valor).

Ultimately, a trip (un viaje) to Valparaíso should also include a journey out in the water (en el mar), as this allows the visitor a change to view the entire city from a unique and important vantage point.  From the docks, you can get a ride on a local boat for between $ 2-4 US, and you get to see all the various ships up close.  You can also see the hills of Valpo very well, with all of the colorful homes (casas de colores) dotting the hillsides, like a brilliant painting on a huge canvas, a perspective of beauty that is both awe-inspiring and breathe taking.  You can also see lost of wildlife, such as sea lions (lobos del mar) and pelicans (pelícanos).

To me, a trip to Santiago and this part of Chile would be incomplete without a visit to Valparaíso.  The charm, the art, the views and the history (la historia) make it a must see for all.

Un Regalo Que Cambio Su Vida – A Gift That Changes Your Life

Recently, I went to Buenos Aires and had the good fortune (la buena fortuna) to attend not one, but 2 great tango shows, which is something I highly recommend to anyone (alguien) coming to visit that part of Argentina.  The tango is a dance (un baile) that is uique to Argentia, but there is so much more that goes with it, including the music and songs athat are rich in presentation and variety. One of the things that really got me to thinking was when I saw one of the members (unos de las personas) of the orchestra who used an accordion, and he was just killing it, having the time of his life why we were all there as witnesses (los testigos).

I could only imagine what it must have been like when him when he first got this instrument, perhaps as a young boy (un joven), probably not too sure of what to make of it, but seeing it as something fun to try (tratar) and learn.  I wondered if he thought this might be a gift (un regalo) that would truly change his life (su vida).  Watching him perform on the stage for an appreciative and supportive audience, it was clear that this gift not only changed his life, but it also changed his destiny as well (su destino también).

I feel the same way about this experience here in Santiago, in that I received the gift of a Fulbright Scholarship (la beca Fulbright), and honor that was bestowed upon me.  When I was approached about applying for this program by my friend Nora, I was skeptical about the prospect of actually being chosen.  I remember saying to her that I was not the type (el tipo) of person who was a good fit for the program and she chided me a bit and said that I was exactly the right type of person for the Fulbright program. I took her words (sus palabras) to heart and thought that I would give it my best shot and whatever happened, happened.

Yet, in reality (en realidad) this is gift has become a blessing (una bendición) in my life, as it is something that has changed my life, continues to change my life and will undoubtably have an impact on me in the future (en el futuro) as well.  In may ways, this gift came in a form that I did not recognize or probably in a manner in which I could fully comprehend the impact.  Yet, like an apprentice musician, I have to practice (practicar) my craft, have to recieve instruction and guidance, and have to learn how to use my abilites to gain new skills.   I need to give my gift all my best, and this is something that can be applied not only here, but each and every day.

Una Visita a la Ciudad de la Luces del Sur – A Visit to the Southern City of Lights

Buenos Aires is one of the places that I have felt I had to visit (visitar) while I was in South America.  I has a rich history, has strong ties to the rich culture of Spain, Italy, France and other Mediterranean countries as well.  It has a great reputation as a tourist destination (una destinación turística) and rightfully so, as it truly is a unique and special place to see, a must visit for any traveler (alguno viajero) to South America.  To miss it would be like going to the East Coast, making it to Boston, but never venturing to New York.  If Santiago is San Francisco and West Coast, Buenos Aires is New York City and East Coast. So, with our friends (nuestros amigos), Juan and Taty, we set out for a 4-day, 3-night visit to the City of Lights in South America.

Once we arrived (llegamos) in Buenos Aires, you could feel the change in the climate right away.  Located on the east side of the Andes, Buenos Aires was founded primarily as a port city, which had its roots (sus raíces) in shipping and trading.  The climate was more humid than Santiago, and there was a gentle breeze (un viento sencillo) blowing in the day.  As we climbed aboard the shuttle to head into the city, I was not sure what to expect, and gazed out the window (la ventana) as the sights of the city edged ever closer.  Once I could see the Obelisk, the large monument resembling the Washington Monument in the US, I knew we were right downtown.  In fact, the Obelisk (el obelisco) is used as a reference point throughout the city as a way to orienting yourself and as a marker for giving directions.

In the downtown (el centro), there is a lot to do, and there is plenty of shopping on the streets of Lavalle and La Florida, where it is more of a pedestrian mall, like you find on Calle Huérfanos in Santiago or such as the 16^th street mall in Denver.  With plenty of stores (muchas tiendas) to choose from, we headed towards things that are difficult to find or expensive to buy in Santiago, especially music, books and leather goods.  Argentina is know widely for its leather goods (cosas de cuero), and the stores in the downtown do not disappoint, with lots of jackets (las chaquetas), purses (las carteras), shoes (los zapatos), briefcases, portfolios and much more from which to choose.

We also were quick to hit up a lunch spot, and the one we found specialized in beef and potatoes (carne y papas). While this might not sound too appealing, for people who like steak, the bife chorizo cut of Argentinean beef was perhaps the best (el major) steak I have ever had in my life.  A thick cut, it is named for the cut of beef between the shoulders of the cow, an area called the “chorizo” historically by the gauchos.  It has not sausage in it, it is 100% pure steak, and man, was it delicious.  It was so good; I made it a sub theme of my entire journey (mi viaje completo), having it 3 times in my 3 nights stay.

Ultimately, heading to Argentina to experience the culture (la cultura) means having to see a Tango show. The tango is unique to this area, with its origins in and around the streets of Buenos Aires, and the events we attended were a combination of dance, music, and songs (los bailes, la música y las canciones). We attended one show that was more of a modern tango, with highly athletic dancers and incredibly difficult choreography that was stunning to watch.  The second show was a more traditional (mas tradicional) mix of tango dances and songs, along with music and dance inspired by the gaucho culture as well.   The events were held in classic theaters and each show came complete with a dinner (bife chorizo for me of course) as well.

Buenos Aires is know for its night life (la vida nocturna) and café culture, so we made sure to also experience as much of the day and night as we could, pausing in our hotel only to get refreshed or catch a few hours (pocas horas) of sleep. Once the trip was over, we made our way back to the airport (al aeropuerto) and headed back to Santiago.  As we made our ways back towards our little apartment in Ñuñoa, I could not help but feel refreshed, as if I had experienced something that once was a dream (un sueno), only to be awakened in the glow of the memories of Buenos Aires.

Una Vuelta Completa – A Complete Roundtrip

Recently, we got up very early (muy temprano) in the morning in order to head out on another Spanish immersion experience this time courtesy of our friends (nuestros amigos) Jaime and Gladys, who had offered to take us on a tour of some regions north of Santiago along the coast (la costa).  We had explored some of the area from Viña del Mar to south to Isla Negra, but had not turned north (norte) to check it out and this would prove to be a great adventure and an awesome learning experience.

There were lots of things in bloom, including California poppy (dedales de oro), which made the hillsides a bright yellow and even conjured up memories of El Paso, with its beautiful yellow wild poppies that grow in great abundance (en mucha abundancia) on the east side of the Franklin mountains.  As we moved out of Santiago, through Til Til and Villa Alemana, we made our way to Viña de Mar on the north end and turned to head up the coast. The rugged coast reminded me of the area south (al sur) of San Francisco, especially the area around Big Sur in northern California, with the coastal highway right next to the ocean, the chilly Pacific waves (las olas) rolling in and sending cool breezes shore bound. 

As we moved further north and deeper into Region V, we made our way through many beautiful coastal towns (pueblitos), including Reñaca, Concón, Quintero, and Las Ventanas. At our noontime destination, we made it to the coastal town of Horcón.  Here there was a calm inlet, with a tranquil calm part (un parte tranquilo y calmo) of the Ocean resting in the bay, and we had a great time filled with lots of conversation, fresh seafood, and peaceful walks on the beach. We even made it to an artisanal market (feria artesanal) and also jumped along the rocks and felt the ocean spray. There were lots of fisherman (los marineros) and hippies, both young and old, all over the town, mixing together as they have for many, many years in this part of Chile.  The day was perfect and the setting awesome, this is definitely a place that is worth an off the beaten path visit.

Spring (la primavera) is a time that means warmer weather, short sleeves, trees budding with leaves, flowers in the air, petals falling on the lunch table, lover heating bills, fresh fruits and vegetables (frutas y verduras frescas), 4 hour lunches, and sunburn. Spring is a time that brings the promise of new life (una vida nueva), and in this manner, I see it in this October sun, to be a metaphor for my own journey as well.  In the same way, I am experiencing a transformation myself, learning anew to spread my wings toward the future with an increased understanding of where I have come from in the past (en el pasado).

Expresiones Útiles en Chile – Useful Expressions in Chile

Spanish is a language of great history (de gran historia) and is also a one that is widely used around the world. The Spanish dialect of castellano was brought to the Americas by the conquistadores and extends from top to bottom in Central and South America.  From the point (el punto) at which you cross the Rio Grande and head into Mexico all the way to the tip of Chile and Argentina, if you exclude Brazil, everyone (todos) speaks Spanish. 

Every Spanish-speaking region has its own manner of accents (sus propios acentos), which one would not find uncommon wherever you go, including the United States.  As we know in North America, an accent in North Carolina (Carolina del norte) is distinctly different from that of New York or Boston, as well as in California or Wisconsin. The regional dialects and common expressions or slang phrases help to define a region and are part of the local flavor (sabor local) and charm.  This is also true in Central and South America, as there is a rhythmic or musical cadence to Spanish in Mexico, a different accent on the “ll” in Argentina, like the sound of a “j” in English, as well as the loss of the “s” on may words here in Chile.  Yet, Spanish is Spanish, the language is really one with a central origin from Spain, and whether one is in Mexico, Argentina, Chile or anywhere else, it is still Spanish (es todavía castellano).

Yet, like any language (algún idioma), Spanish continues to change and evolve with local influences and expressions, and as a result, a large number (un gran numero) of slang expressions are important to understand as well, especially here in Chile. For example, the expression “¡al tiro!” means to do something right away or immediately. The term (esta palabra) has its origins in the fact that at Noon (mediodía) on the Cerro Santa Lucia, at Noon, the soldiers would let go a shot (un tiro) from a cannon and this would be a signal to all the people that it was the noon hour. The expression is used all over Chile and is one specific term that separates Chileans form others in Spanish countries.

I have taken the liberty to expand on this and create a list of 10 other terms that I believe are important for the Chilean traveler to know in order to better understand and integrate into this society.

1.     ¡Ándate al punto del cerro! – Get away from me, right now!

2.     Saco de plomo – fatty, heavy one, load

3.     Pololo, polola – boyfriend, girlfriend

4.     Taco – traffic

5.     Lukas – Cash, bucks

6.     ¡Cachai! – Get it!

7.     El descueve – very good looking

8.     Me mande un condoro – a great error, a blunder

9.     No estoy de ahí – I’m not interested

10.  Super-bueno, Super-lindo, Super-importante – really great, really pretty, really important

The list could go one, but you get the idea.  To effectively integrate into a society is to work to understand both the context and culture within a language and only by immersion can this really be achieved.  I still have a long way to go, but I think I am on the way to becoming a super-estudiante here in Chile.

Un Conocimiento Pequeño es una Cosa Peligrosa – A Little Knowledge is a Dangerous Thing

Sometimes I feel like a real Chilean, a person who is a card-carrying citizen of Santiago (santiaguino).  Yeah, I feel like all the other adults, going to work, meeting with people, creating projects, assembling new ideas and making decisions (tomando decisiones).  Yet, in one brief and sudden moment, that dream was crushed and the reality of the fact that I am still just a stranger (un extranjero) living in a foreign land came rushing back full force.

The other day (un otro día), after returning from work at UMCE and heading home for some lunch, I was feeling like things were somewhat on cruise control, meaning I felt I was managing things well and getting my work done in an effective and timely way (una manera efectiva y en tiempo).  Yet, when I came to the apartment building that day, I was greeted by the doorman, who looked at me with a dour expression and said that he had some bad news (malas noticias).  He told me that a person had come to the building and cut off the electricity to my apartment.  I asked him why and he just shrugged his shoulders and mumbled something about a bill (un cuento) not being paid.

After this, I ran up the 10 flights of stairs to get to my apartment, not wanting to wait for the elevator in the least, and sure enough, it was true.  No lights, no power, nothing (nada). So, I tried to call my owner (la dueña) for information, but she was unavailable, as well as here assistant (su ayudanta), who was at the moment busy and unable to help.  I then called Sarah who was practicing Spanish with her friend Nacho, who is from Santiago.  Nacho told Sarah that we in effect had to pay (pagar) the bill, which to me contradicted all the arrangements we had previously made with the landlord. Yet, I took his advice to heart and after a series of phone calls and Internet searches, my job (mi trabajo) was to hit the road and pay the bill.

When I tell people here that I thought the owner paid the bills for services (los servicios), such as electricity and water, and then she billed me in turn, they just roll their eyes at me and say, “never in Chile (nunca en Chile)”.  So, a bus ride away, I found myself at the cashier (la cajera) of the electric company and I paid the bill in full with the promise that I would have electricity (la electricidad) in about 5 hours.  Funny enough, when I got back to the apartment (el departamento) and prepared for what I believed would be a much longer time and a night filled with darkness (con oscuridad), the lights came on within 2 hours, even before Sarah returned from her Spanish lessons.

Suffice it to say that I had another useful learning experience (una otra experiencia de aprendizaje) that verified the fact that although I have traveled far, I will have a long way to go.

Todo el Tiempo, Nada en Tiempo – All the Time, Nothing on Time

I have written about time and organization within my journeys in Chile, and how I have had to adjust my habits (mis hábitos), manners (maneras) and ways (caminos) to better fit into the culture that is all around me.  I mean, there is breakfast in the morning, lunch in the early afternoon and dinner at night, and in many ways to think in blocks of time (cuadros de tiempo), not just in specific increments of time is a much better paradigm to follow.  I mean, the expressions of “Good morning” (Buenos días) or “Good afternoon” (Buenos tardes) are used all the time and they speak more to a range of time than any specific set time.

In Chile, especially here in Santiago, the days are designed with regulation, but there is always a negotiation that is flexible when it comes to the implementation of any exact schedule (alguno horario exacto).  For example, the other day, I had to meet with a plumber (un plomero) in my apartment and he called a number of times in order to set an appointment. We agreed on 5 PM as the time, and on the set day, when he had not shown up by 6:30 PM, I decided to give him a call (una llamada), assuming he would not come at all.  He told me he would be the in 15 minutes and a little after 7 PM he showed up, looked over the situation and decided we needed to schedule another visit to actually fix the item in question, which he in turn decided to do later over the phone (por teléfono).  When he did call me, we had almost begun a friendship and on his next visit, the third to the department, I figured I should at least invite him to lunch, heck, he’s almost family (casi familia).

A while back (antes), I went to a conference and things were extremely well organized, with the meeting times and locations (las locaciones) perfectly defined and printed out on glossy tri-fold pamphlets.  Yet, something that starts at 9 in the programs actually will begin around 9:15, which now moves everything just slightly (un poco), so that something that is supposed to end at 1 PM and break for lunch will actually finish at 1:30 PM. The time really is relative; I mean what is 15-30 minutes between friends, family and countrymen (chilenos)? 

There also seems to be time for a little more all the time as well. For example, one of the groups of presentations that I attended was scheduled to end (terminar) at 4 PM and allow for a break (un descanso) so that the next group of presenters, including me, could set up their materials and await the next audience.  Well, in the final presentation with about 2 minutes left, the presenter put in a 12-minute video, which he showed in its entirety (completamente), much to the delight of the audience, minus one fidgety attendee from the US. While the Chileans are perfectly patient in these moments, this impatient North American squirmed in his seat.  This is something that contradicts my nature (en contrario de mi natura) and the management of this is probably one of the most valuable things to learn here in Chile.

In fact, people here make time for one another rather that cutting someone off, and to me, this is a great example (un buen ejemplo) of how to best manage the course of your day and to really effectively engage with people.  So, all the time, where is nothing on time, but everything gets done no matter how long it takes.  This is no the land of tomorrow (mañana), but the land of today (hoy), albeit a bit delayed.